St. Malo - Tides

At the risk of sounding like an absolute moron, I had no idea that tidal change could be as dramatic as what I saw in St. Malo.  Sure, I knew that there is a high tide and a low tide, but since I had never witnessed anything extreme I just never fathomed it possible that there could be such differences every day in the level of the sea.

Here's a glimpse into what I mean:

Low Tide in St. Malo

Stranded boats.

Lots of beachfront.

The people up against the wall know what's coming, I guess.

Cool rocks with all kinds of sealife are exposed.

There's even a makeshift swimming pool filled with ocean water.

Remember this photo later.  Note how there is land in between the beach and these two islands.  At this point in the day, you can walk to the islands.

In fact, here is the "bridge" you can cross to get there.

However, when the tide comes in, the bridge quickly seeps back into the ocean.  It's weird to watch people walking over it when the tide is coming in because they literally look like they are walking on water.

Until obviously, they can't walk on it anymore...

and then it just looks like water.

High Tide in St. Malo

Yes, those are the same two islands from before.  The ones to which you could easily walk.

Crazy, huh?  Nature is pretty cool.

People who don't pay attention to the changing tides

Here's the story of a group of people who weren't quite up to speed on the whole "if you stay on the island too long you will be stuck there" situation of St. Malo.  In this frame, you see them approaching what is still just barely a bridge.  They TOTALLY could have crossed it when they got there.  Would their feet have gotten wet?  Yes.  Would it be a little freaky?  Maybe.  Would it have been better than being stranded? Absolutely.  However, they took way to long to discuss their options and...

in the end decided to turn back.

Where they waited in freakishly cold wind until they waved down some kayakers.  I'm not going to lie, I was kind of hoping they would have to stay there overnight and learn a really good lesson.

But instead the kayakers went for help.

And about an hour or so later, a rescue boat arrived. 

As they were whisked back to solid ground (on a boat I felt was a little too small), the crowd watching this debacle, including yours truly, finally dispersed to find some other form of entertainment.  The moral of the story is if yo ufind yourself in St. Malo, you don't want to be the entertainment.

St. Malo - Food Shops

When I am visiting a new place, my favorite thing to do is walk around and discover all the local shops.  Of course, 9 times out of ten I find myself in some sort of food shop. Shocker.  I just can't help myself; I'm a foodie at heart.  Here are the best food shops I found in St. Malo.  If you are heading there in the future, check out these unique establishments.

Confiserie Guella makes its own caramel au beurre salé, and it is hands down the best caramel I have ever eaten.  Believe me, I wouldn't throw those words around lightly.  It helps that Brittany is know for salt and butter, both of which go into making the divine caramels.  I assume Guella does not have to look far for quality ingredients. 

This was a small combination chocolate store/patisserie we stumbled upon and we went back at least three times.  Why?

Well, they specialized in regional cakes and pastries that were out of this world.  Again, fairly sure there was a serious amount of butter in all of them, but at least it was the best butter in the world.

One speciality kept bringing us back here - the tarte au caramel.  Do you see the trend here in St. Malo - butter, salt, caramel?  I could live there.  I might put on several kilos in a short amount of time, but that would be the point I guess.

I was a bit excited here, but then again who wouldn't be when tasting perfection?

La Maison du Beurre (The House of Butter).  This establishment specializes in Beurre Bordier, which just happens to be in my humble opinion the best butter in "ze world."

Yes, the chunk of golden delicious looking awesomeness right there on the counter is beurre demi-sel or for the non-frenchies lightly salted butter.

In addition to butter, you can buy all kinds of regional favorites here.

And learn how butter is made.  It's like a little mini field trip all in one store.

The best part is you can leave with your own little piece of butter that was pulled of the big chunk of butter and pounded into this nifty shape - all in front of your eyes.  Now, only if it were free. :)

This store is a must see.  Epices Roellinger sells myriad spices and spice mixes.  The owner/operator is super friendly and informative.  He not only will guide you to the right spice for you but will also give you ideas on how to best use it.

The aroma in the store is surprising pleasant, not overhwelming at all.

You can find just about anything you want on this wall of spices.  Happy hunting!

Confiserie Guella

8 rue porcon

St. Malo

La Maison du Beurre

9 rue de l’Orme

St. Malo

Epices Roellinger

www.epices-roellinger.com

12 rue Saint Vincent

St. Malo

St. Malo - Restaurants

It should come as no surprise that when in St. Malo I sought out the best restaurants.  The first night we ate at a St. Malo institution called A La Duchesse Anne.  If I am not mistaken, it has a Michelin star.  It was in all the guidebooks, etc.  Thus, we dined there and enjoyed ourselves.  However, I left there knowing that there just had to be even better food in the tiny walled town. 

I was right, and it was small place called Bouche en Folie.  How did I find such a teeny little gem without knowing the town?  Well, I asked the locals of course.  That is a rule of thumb to live by when traveling.  Ask the locals - they always know what is best. 

We also stumbled upon a creperie while on our bike ride outside the city and just happened to be famished.  Leaving brittany without eating a crepe would have been sacrilegious, and who wants to be that?  So, of course we stopped and ate there. 

Photos of all these adventures are below. 

A la Duchesse Anne was very traditional.

I started with gratin of langoustines.

While B had two types of oysters.  Seafood really is the way to go when you are on the coast.  You just can't go wrong with something so fresh.

For his main course of lobster, B was brought an assortment of cutlery.  Impressive and intimidating all at the same time, right?

Even more impressive, though, had to be this bib which was tied on by the waitress herself.

The long awaited lobster.

My sole meuniere.

Ok, so these frites did not come with what we ordered but I got a whif of them from a neighboring table and quickly put in a request for them to grace our table as well.  Can you blame me? 

Ah, the cheese course, something I will miss dearly when I am back stateside.

Creme caramel for me.

Tarte tatin for B.

Creme fraiche that appeared to be, well, really fresh came with the tart.  Now, that is French.

Don't worry.  This was not the next course at A la Duchesse Anne.  This was the crepe we ate on the sojourn from our bike ride.  Obviously, it is a savory crepe, which they call a galette.  Filled with cheese, eggs and bacon I didn't care what they called it, I just wanted them to bring it to me stat.

They also brought a lovely green salad, some frites and a bottle of local cider.  A picturesque lunch in Brittany.

Now for the main event: Bouche en Folie.

While the restaurant maybe seats 25 people, each table is well thought out.  Details are attended to and clients appear to be king. 

Started with a crispy beef ravioli and sweet potato puree.

As well as marinated salmon with creme fraiche.

A steak with delicious crispy potatoes (wrapped in bacon, mind you) and an apple compote was a perfect main dish.

B loved his cabillaud (codfish) and asparagus.

To end the meal: a café gourmand.  Espresso accompanied by a variety of tiny desserts.  Perfection.

A La Duchesse Anne

5, Place Guy La Chambre

St. Malo

02 99 40 85 33

Bouche en Folie

14, Rue du boyer

St. Malo

www.boucheenfolie.eresto.net