Roussillon (and the perilous trip getting there)

Renting a car is the way to go in the south of France.  While the roads might be iffy, the scenery is gorgeous and well worth getting lost every time.  My day trip from Aix-en-Provence included a trip to Roussillon and Gordes.  Today, I show you my trip from Aix to Roussillon.  I might have referred to it as perilous, but I think it is safe to say that is a bit of an exaggeration.  It was actually really fun.  So fun in fact I hated that I had no one to share it with until I realized I had all of you.  So, take this trip with me... 

Not far outside of town, the road became small but everything else became vast.  I found myself wanting to stop every few minutes to just take in the fresh air and beautiful rolling hills.

Not to mention the occasional chateau I would pass surrounded by vineyards.

This bridge merited me stopping the car, getting out and taking it all in for a few minutes.

Winding through the backroads has huge benefits.  You get to see small villages that dot the countryside of France.  They seldom disappoint as they are almost always charming and full of history.

Take this town for example (hating myself right now for not remembering the name): my route took my straight through the center of town, right past the local castle.  Unbelievable.

Shortly after that, I got into territory with which I am not very familiar: driving through mountains.  You see, I'm originally from Louisiana (think below sea-level) and now live in Dallas (think barely above sea level).  Needless to say, winding up a mountain in a toy-sized car called for a few short breaks to allow some color to return to my face.

Speaking of safe, I highly recommend getting a GPS system if you intend on driving through the backroads of France.  However, here is my piece of advice regarding these systems - sometimes they have NO IDEA what they are talking about.  Please use your judgement like I did when the automated voice tells you to turn left down a road like the one above.  Clearly this was not a road I wanted to go down.  I wasn't even sure it was a road.  Looked more like a driveway to me.  So, I kept driving.

Frustrated, the voice told me to turn left again in 200 meters (that damn metric system again) and lo and behold this was where it wanted me to turn.  Again, not happening.  So, I continued on my merry way.

Only to have the voice tell me to turn left here.  Yep.  Here.  Where there is no road.  In fact, where there is nothing because this is the side of a MOUNTAIN.  GPS lady told me to turn left off the side of the mountain.  I felt like throwing the stupid thing off the mountain itself and seeing how GPS lady liked that.  Then I thought that probably wasn't such a good idea either.  So, I just ignored it as usual and headed to the next town where the GPS and I got back on good terms again.

Finally, I arrived in Roussillon, which is famous for the red ochre cliffs that surround it.  The village itself is high on a mountaintop and is a vision of oranges, reds and yellows.  It only takes a few minutes to stroll through the tiny town, so if you are close by, I suggest making a detour.  It might be quick, but it is unforgettable.

Stone stairwell leading to the town perched on the hill.

There are plenty of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and shops to keep you busy here.

Not to mention the beautiful architecture.

Walking through the town was like taking a step back in time.

Don't miss this store on the edge of town.  It has the best collection of pottery in Roussillon.  It was beautifully hand-painted.  I will be going back to France ASAP if only to shop here.  It's a must.

You've Got To Be Kidding

Back in the ol' U. S. of A. and very happy to be here.  However, I must share with you my frustration this morning.  As I was heading to the bank to exchange the Euros I had left in my French bank account, I read this.  Let me just summarize it for you: THE EURO IS AT A FOUR YEAR LOW AGAINST THE DOLLAR.  That sounds great for the dollar and for people heading to Europe right now, but for me it couldn't be worse timing.  When I went to France the rate was wickedly close to 1.50 and now it is 1.23.  You have got to be kidding me.  Do you think there is a chance I can get my money back from the random exchange rate black hole that it entered?  Yeah, didn't think so, but wanted to ask all the same.

Au Revoir

As the sun sets on my time here in Paris, I simultaneously cannot believe it has been a year and feel like I have been here my whole life.  It's weird how time works like that.  I guess it is for the best because it leaves me with no regrets.  Getting on the plane (way too early) tomorrow morning, I will be happy to be heading back to my real home and to my husband.  Will I be sad to be leaving a place that feels like it is a part of me?  Sure.  Do I know that I will be back one day soon?  Yes.  So, with a happy heart I head home to Texas, where the weather is warm, the people are friendly and there is more than enough delicious Mexican food to keep my culinary desires satisfied for the foreseeable future.

However, I'm not done telling my French story just yet.  There is more to come.  I have many more posts to, well, post regarding my French adventures.  There are so many more places and culinary delights to share with you before moving on.  So, continue to check the blog in the coming months.  I promise to not disappoint.

Until then, rest assured that my last meal in Paris (foie gras, thank you) was worthy.

I'm Alive!

I made it!  The car and I are back in Aix, all in one piece.  Although at times I doubted that would be the case.  Why? Well...

Considering in rural France they claim this to be a two-way road

and they put those "supposed" two-way roads on the side of mountains

and they make you drive this, I am happy to be alive!  I mean, seriously, I think my nieces and nephews have play cars the same size! 

Driving in France

Wish me luck.  I rented a car and will be taking on the back roads of Provence in it today.  I've never driven a car in France so it should be interesting.  Thank God it's not England where they make you drive on the wrong side of the road.  I mean, what is that about anyway?

I'll update you at days end.  If you don't hear from me, assume the worst and contact the local authorities.  Just kidding!  (Sort of).

Gnocchi à la Ratatouille

I was mulling over my options for dinner last night when I realized that I already had almost everything I needed for a perfect dinner right in the fridge.  The leftover ratatouille would make the perfect base for a completely new meal.  The problem was I could not decide whether I wanted to make a veggie quiche, veggie pasta, a veggie omelette, veggie pizza, veggie risotto.  The list went on and on with various possibilites.  I finally decided that I would make Gnocchi à la Ratatouille.  I had handmade gnocchi I bought at the market yesterday morning, a jar of pesto in the fridge, and some olive oil.  I didn't need anything else.  If you don't happen to have handmade gnocchi (think it is a fair guess that you don't), I bet you have a box of pasta or rice in the pantry.  The point of this post is to show that you can transform leftovers into a great new meal using basic ingredients you have around the house.  Simply apply the process below to whatever you have on hand.

Leftovers are not only a great way to save cash but also a great timesaver. So, the next time you want to trash something ask yourself if there is any way you can reinvent it the following night. There is bound to be a way. Give it a try and you'll be surprised.



Check out the transformation from leftovers to incredibly easy and tasty dinner...

I took the leftover ratatouille.

Added a spoon full of pesto (can be store bought or homemade) and a couple tablespoons of olive oil.  Mixed and reheated (microwave or on the stovetop).

The gnocchi I used - which has a very short cooking time (abour 3 minutes).

Brought salted water to a boil, threw in the gnocchi and when they rose to the top they were ready.

I mixed the reheated veggies with the gnocchi.  Et voila!  A delicious and healthy dinner on the table in no time. 

Wow. It Just Gets Better.

I didn't think Aix-en-Provence could get any better until this morning when the Tuesday market proved otherwise.  While there is a daily farmer's market in Aix, come Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday the whole town is basically transformed into one type of market or another.  One could spend hours strolling through the different markets across town. 

There is the flower market outside the Hotel de Ville.

There is the regular farmer's market which brings more booths to Place Richelme on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday than on other days. This calisson vendor is one example.  Calissons are a regional treat comprised of almonds and fruit.  You just have to try one when you are in Aix or your visit is not complete.

Another welcome addition today was the honey man.

As well as the much enlarged seafood stand.

How scary does this fish (a monkfish) look?  For 30 Euros he's all yours.  He was caught in the Mediterranean, if that for any reason makes him more appealing. 

The market taking place at Place des Precheurs was really outstanding.  Everything from fresh fruit and vegetables stands to butchers, chicken roasters, cheese sellers, and spice hawkers was found.  Plus, right across the street one can find all kinds of pottery, jewelry, soaps and clothes.  It's an adult candyland.

By 11 am, the paella man was getting close to selling out.  Of course, I couldn't pass up the opportunity sample his fare.  After contemplating all the add-on options, I opted for chicken, mussels, shrimp and chorizo.  Jealous, aren't you?

I was intrigued by the spice man.  I wanted so badly to be a permanent resident here so I could scoop up several spices and head home with them to make marvelous meals.  Alas, that is not the case.  So, instead I settled for sticking around and smelling all the different scents for as long as I could before I became annoying.

This is without a doubt a new addition to the market - a macaron stand.  Macarons are all the rage everywhere right now.  So much so that the trend has hit the small town market.

Ah, my favorite stand - the rotisserie.  The smell wafting from this place would bring even a vegetarian to her knees.  It's simply heavenly.  I struck up a conversation with the nice elderly gentleman who ran this joint, and he stole my heart.  I handed over five Euros at the end of our conversation, and he put away a perfectly roasted bird and the accompanying juice-soaked potatoes for me.  Before leaving the market, I dropped back by the stall, picked up my piping hot lunch and had to restrain myself from tearing open the bag before getting back to the apartment.

The colorful pottery was calling my name, but considering the large amount of things I am bringing home already I had to be content with just looking today.

I was in awe of the craftsman fashioning chairs during the bustling market. 

The free entertainment made and already perfect morning even better.

Ratatouille

Ratatouille.  It's not just a movie.  It's also a delicious vegetable dish from the Provence region of France.  So, when examining the daily market yesterday, it did not take me long to figure out that I wanted to make a version of the dish for dinner.  There were just so many gorgeous, fresh vegetables from which to choose that it was a no-brainer.  Here is my impromptu recipe for ratatouille.  Try it tonight; it's quite simple. 

Ingredients: red bell pepper, eggplant, carrot, onion, zuchinni, 2 cloves garlic, salt, pepper and of course herbes de provence.  Sidenote: most ratatouilles have tomatoes, but I decided to omit them this time around.  Feel free to add them to your dish.  Second sidenote: all the veggies I used cost just 2 Euros and 50 centimes!

Cut each veggie into a brunoise or small dice.  Keep veggies separate. 

Sauté each veggie separately in olive oil until slightly softened but still with a bite. Seasoning to taste with salt, pepper and herbes de provence as the veggies cook.

Once all veggies are cooked, mix together and reheat in the sauté pan for a few minutes.  Check seasoning and adjust as necessary.

I also sautéed some shrimp with the same spices I used in the ratatouille.  Be careful when cooking shrimp.  They are easy to overcook.  About a minute per side is all they need.  Once they start turning pink, they are ready.

Et voila!  Dinner in Provence, straight from the market.

What a Difference a Day Can Make

Right now I am cool as a cucumber, sipping some red wine and gnoshing on delicious comté cheese.  Last night, however, was a different story.  I had arrived (just barely since I caught the train literally two minutes before it left) to a rainy Provence from a rainy and cold Alsace and was not happy about the weather.  Rain and cold temperatures have been following me since ten days ago and quite frankly I was getting sick of them both.  In fact, so sick that I actually was sick.  I've also had a cold for ten days and it has been relentless. 

So when I arrived in Aix to less than perfect weather while still under the weather myself, I was a bit bummed.  All I wanted to do was get to the apartment I had rented and access the internet so I could communicate with my husband.  You see, for some unknown reason, my phone had been unwilling to receive calls from or make calls to B for several days.  It would work perfectly fine for any other phone number, just not his.  How lovely and convenient is that?

Of course, upon arrival the internet would not work.  I felt defeated.  The rain had followed me to Provence, I was still sniffling, and now my only mode of communication with home was broken.  I called my parents to ask them to please let B know that I made it to Aix safely.  During the call my dad asked if I knew that more flights had been canceled in Europe because of the (insert your favorite expletive here) volcano ash.  When I said I had no idea what he was talking about, he said I could look it up on the internet.   The Internet!Aaahhhh!! 

Tired from traveling clear across France all day, exhausted from being sick for 10 days, homesick for my husband (and good Mexican food), frustrated by the lack of internet access, dumbfounded by the inability of my phone to call the one person I wanted to call, and horrified that my flight home would be canceled, I was primed for a breakdown.  And it came full force - tears and all.

Luckily, the moon and stars aligned for me.  Shortly after my (much-deserved, thank you) breakdown, B was able to get through to my cell, and I was able to get the internet fixed.  Once I could take a deep breath, I realized that I have only a few days left in France, so I had better enjoy them regardless of the circumstances.

And look what today brought: sunshine, nice weather, less sniffles, fully functioning airports across Europe and a long conversation with my husband on Skype (not to mention the wine and cheese!).  Here's to cherishing the bad times along with the good.  Without them, would we ever know how good we have it most of the time?

Here are some pics from my afternoon in Aix-en-Provence today...

The apartment.

The kitchen - look how big it is!  The sink isn't in a drawer and there's space to actually cut things.  It's amazing how much more I appreciate those things after living in my tiny boite in Paris.

My lunch - straight from the morning market: a simple salad, avocado slices, some mango, ridiculously tasty cheeses, tatkizi (a mediterrean dip), and a good old-fashioned baguette.  How could I have asked for more?  It was simply delightful.

After lunch, I headed out to discover the town.  I discovered a lively place where people gather at local outdoor cafes and mingle. 

Le Cours Mirabeau is the main street in town with beautiful plane trees lining the avenue.

Not surprisingly, the town is filled with beautiful statues and fountains.

And lots of shops selling local fare.