A Weekend in Alsace

Before leaving France, I had the wonderful opportunity of spending a long weekend in Ottrott, a small village in the Alsace region.  If you haven't been to Alsace or it is not on your list of places you want to go, reconsider it as a destination.  In December, you might remember Brad and I visiting Strasbourg.  I fell in love with the area then and my recent trip to the countryside only made my love grow stronger.  It's just so unique with all the German influence.  Plus, the food is to die for, and the people are friendly.  Doesn't get much better than that!  Here is a quick look at my time in and around the small Alsatian town.

The weather was a bit dreary, but that was not unique to Alsace.  For some reason May in France this year was cold and rainy.  The beautiful landscape in and around Ottrot more than made up for that, though.

I have to give a big shout out to my hosts, Liliana and Janne.  Thank you so much for the invitation and all the hospitality you showed me.  

For example, when I arrived dog tired, cold, sick (and thus in desperate need of a nap) this is what was waiting for me in my room.  I mean, really?  Honestly, I could have stayed in there all day - roaring fireplace, cozy bed, good book.  It was perfect.

Alas, hunger got the best of me and so I was delighted when we headed into town to get some veritable flammekueche/tarte flambée. Believe me, it went fast! 

Next came a river fish that is frequently used in France called Sandre.  Fresh veggies with a cream and pesto sauce made it quite delicious.

Dessert seemed to take forever to get to the table.  When it arrived, I certainly knew why.  This was not your average creme brulée!  It was accompanied by all kinds of fruits and sorbets on a beautifully constructed plate.  Well done!

The next day, we headed to a local castle, Haut-Koenigsbourg.

Which had amazing views, even when it was overcast.

To rid ourselves of the chill we took on while walking through a centuries old castle in the cold, we headed to a little restaurant and tasted local delicacies, including snails.

As well as this potato, bacon and cheese dish.

Hupsa Pfannala was a quaint place with good food and good service.  If you are in the neighborhood, check it out.

Then we headed into "the big town," Obernai, which of course had traditional Alsatian architecture.

We even saw a stork's nest high on top of a chimney.  The area's mascot is a stork so I was excited to finally see proof that they really existed around there.  I was starting to think it was just a gimmick, but nature proved me wrong.

Speaking of nature, the next morning we woke up as early as our wine-induced sleep would allow and hiked a mountain.

Yes, you read that right.  We hiked up and down Mount Odile and while it was a tough start, the fresh air actually did us all some good. :)

At the top of the mountain lies a monastery (as well as breathtaking views).

There is also a natural spring with holy water that you can use to hydrate yourself on the long walk home.

It was such a long walk home that we were actually worried we had hiked down into Germany by accident.  It's an easy mistake to make, but luckily we ended up right where we started - in charming Ottrott, France.

Hupsa Pfannala

www.hupsapfannala.com

59 Route du Vin

Saint-Hippolyte

France

Below is a restaurant and wine shop that is not mentioned above, but is highly recommended:

L'Ami Fritz

www.amifritz.com

8, rue des Chateaux

Ottrot-le-Haut

France

Gordes

From Roussillon, I headed west towards Gordes.  Luckily, the only mountain I had to climb in my toy car to get there was at the very end.  In fact, it was the hilltop on which Gordes sits, looking liking a majestic medieval town stuck in time.

Not only is the view of Gordes itself beautiful, but also the views from Gordes are breathtaking.  Be prepared to take a camera and to shoot lots of photos.  The culinary scene in Gordes is pretty good too.  So, take your appetite as well.

View of Gordes when driving into the town.

View walking into the town from the parking area just outside town.  I suggest parking here because it's just easier.  There are some places in town, but save yourself the time and frustration of driving into this tiny hamlet and instead park right outside.  Plus, it gives you a good opportunity to take in more of the views since you won't be focused on the road (or the crazy French driver flying at you head-on).

The town center is open and surrounded by old stone buildings.

And lots of shops.

It's quiet and peaceful here.

And there are plenty of places to pop into when the rain starts coming down like this.

As my rain shelter, I personally chose a modern looking restaurant which served new twists on old French favorites.  This was their version of a goat cheese salad.  The goat cheese was wrapped in a phyllo dough and crisped in the oven, then drizzeled with a balsamic reduction.  Well done.

The scallop and shrimp gnocchi did not disappoint either.

But the best part of Gordes was without a doubt the landscape surrounding it.

Not to mention all the little stone walkways that lead you to the magnificent views.

Pretty cool.  I would definitely stop here again for lunch and to soak up the countryside.

On my way back to Aix, I stopped at this monastery.  It was the only thing in the entire valley and of course has been there for hundreds of years.  If you have time to swing by L'Abbaye de Senanque, I suggest it. 

Roussillon (and the perilous trip getting there)

Renting a car is the way to go in the south of France.  While the roads might be iffy, the scenery is gorgeous and well worth getting lost every time.  My day trip from Aix-en-Provence included a trip to Roussillon and Gordes.  Today, I show you my trip from Aix to Roussillon.  I might have referred to it as perilous, but I think it is safe to say that is a bit of an exaggeration.  It was actually really fun.  So fun in fact I hated that I had no one to share it with until I realized I had all of you.  So, take this trip with me... 

Not far outside of town, the road became small but everything else became vast.  I found myself wanting to stop every few minutes to just take in the fresh air and beautiful rolling hills.

Not to mention the occasional chateau I would pass surrounded by vineyards.

This bridge merited me stopping the car, getting out and taking it all in for a few minutes.

Winding through the backroads has huge benefits.  You get to see small villages that dot the countryside of France.  They seldom disappoint as they are almost always charming and full of history.

Take this town for example (hating myself right now for not remembering the name): my route took my straight through the center of town, right past the local castle.  Unbelievable.

Shortly after that, I got into territory with which I am not very familiar: driving through mountains.  You see, I'm originally from Louisiana (think below sea-level) and now live in Dallas (think barely above sea level).  Needless to say, winding up a mountain in a toy-sized car called for a few short breaks to allow some color to return to my face.

Speaking of safe, I highly recommend getting a GPS system if you intend on driving through the backroads of France.  However, here is my piece of advice regarding these systems - sometimes they have NO IDEA what they are talking about.  Please use your judgement like I did when the automated voice tells you to turn left down a road like the one above.  Clearly this was not a road I wanted to go down.  I wasn't even sure it was a road.  Looked more like a driveway to me.  So, I kept driving.

Frustrated, the voice told me to turn left again in 200 meters (that damn metric system again) and lo and behold this was where it wanted me to turn.  Again, not happening.  So, I continued on my merry way.

Only to have the voice tell me to turn left here.  Yep.  Here.  Where there is no road.  In fact, where there is nothing because this is the side of a MOUNTAIN.  GPS lady told me to turn left off the side of the mountain.  I felt like throwing the stupid thing off the mountain itself and seeing how GPS lady liked that.  Then I thought that probably wasn't such a good idea either.  So, I just ignored it as usual and headed to the next town where the GPS and I got back on good terms again.

Finally, I arrived in Roussillon, which is famous for the red ochre cliffs that surround it.  The village itself is high on a mountaintop and is a vision of oranges, reds and yellows.  It only takes a few minutes to stroll through the tiny town, so if you are close by, I suggest making a detour.  It might be quick, but it is unforgettable.

Stone stairwell leading to the town perched on the hill.

There are plenty of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and shops to keep you busy here.

Not to mention the beautiful architecture.

Walking through the town was like taking a step back in time.

Don't miss this store on the edge of town.  It has the best collection of pottery in Roussillon.  It was beautifully hand-painted.  I will be going back to France ASAP if only to shop here.  It's a must.

I'm Alive!

I made it!  The car and I are back in Aix, all in one piece.  Although at times I doubted that would be the case.  Why? Well...

Considering in rural France they claim this to be a two-way road

and they put those "supposed" two-way roads on the side of mountains

and they make you drive this, I am happy to be alive!  I mean, seriously, I think my nieces and nephews have play cars the same size! 

Driving in France

Wish me luck.  I rented a car and will be taking on the back roads of Provence in it today.  I've never driven a car in France so it should be interesting.  Thank God it's not England where they make you drive on the wrong side of the road.  I mean, what is that about anyway?

I'll update you at days end.  If you don't hear from me, assume the worst and contact the local authorities.  Just kidding!  (Sort of).

Wow. It Just Gets Better.

I didn't think Aix-en-Provence could get any better until this morning when the Tuesday market proved otherwise.  While there is a daily farmer's market in Aix, come Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday the whole town is basically transformed into one type of market or another.  One could spend hours strolling through the different markets across town. 

There is the flower market outside the Hotel de Ville.

There is the regular farmer's market which brings more booths to Place Richelme on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday than on other days. This calisson vendor is one example.  Calissons are a regional treat comprised of almonds and fruit.  You just have to try one when you are in Aix or your visit is not complete.

Another welcome addition today was the honey man.

As well as the much enlarged seafood stand.

How scary does this fish (a monkfish) look?  For 30 Euros he's all yours.  He was caught in the Mediterranean, if that for any reason makes him more appealing. 

The market taking place at Place des Precheurs was really outstanding.  Everything from fresh fruit and vegetables stands to butchers, chicken roasters, cheese sellers, and spice hawkers was found.  Plus, right across the street one can find all kinds of pottery, jewelry, soaps and clothes.  It's an adult candyland.

By 11 am, the paella man was getting close to selling out.  Of course, I couldn't pass up the opportunity sample his fare.  After contemplating all the add-on options, I opted for chicken, mussels, shrimp and chorizo.  Jealous, aren't you?

I was intrigued by the spice man.  I wanted so badly to be a permanent resident here so I could scoop up several spices and head home with them to make marvelous meals.  Alas, that is not the case.  So, instead I settled for sticking around and smelling all the different scents for as long as I could before I became annoying.

This is without a doubt a new addition to the market - a macaron stand.  Macarons are all the rage everywhere right now.  So much so that the trend has hit the small town market.

Ah, my favorite stand - the rotisserie.  The smell wafting from this place would bring even a vegetarian to her knees.  It's simply heavenly.  I struck up a conversation with the nice elderly gentleman who ran this joint, and he stole my heart.  I handed over five Euros at the end of our conversation, and he put away a perfectly roasted bird and the accompanying juice-soaked potatoes for me.  Before leaving the market, I dropped back by the stall, picked up my piping hot lunch and had to restrain myself from tearing open the bag before getting back to the apartment.

The colorful pottery was calling my name, but considering the large amount of things I am bringing home already I had to be content with just looking today.

I was in awe of the craftsman fashioning chairs during the bustling market. 

The free entertainment made and already perfect morning even better.